R. Parker (95/100)
The 2022 Ultreia Rapolao matured exclusively in foudre, as they have eliminated the barrels for the élevage. The dead plants in the vineyard were replaced with Pan y Carne (a local strain of Trousseau), and those plants have started producing grapes. They have also lowered the maceration time in this wine, and the lighter grape and the lighter vinification seem to have compensated for the additional concentration of the warm year. The foudres had been used for whites before, so the wood is still a little new and seems to have given the wine a faint creamy texture and nose. The nose is clean, and they have avoided the reduction that happened in some previous vintages. It's juicy and medium to full-bodied, with abundant, slightly dusty tannins.